Over Labor Day weekend, The Rib and I made a last-ditch effort to save the summer by coming together with neighbors and friends in what can only be described as a great two-day social affair (not two straight days, but two days in a row of neighborly get-togethers). As part of this happy funtime weekend, we did a pair of wine tastings. Since we had accidentally done the Texas v. Virginia Sangiovese Smackdown the week before, we decided to continue the series and compare a 2009 Lone Star and Old Dominion Viognier side-by-side.
Unlike the “accidental” taste-off with the Sangiovese, we enlisted the help of willing neighbors and actually tasted these two wines side-by-side. There were a total of eight of us tasting. Here are the results:
2009 Duchman Family Winery Viognier, Texas Hill Country
On the nose, I got some apricot, white peach, and a slight honey (not quite a more flowery honeysuckle, though). On the palate, there was peach, peach, and more peach! This was a nice little selection with a ton of acid that held up well to a gooey, cheesy, sausage-laden dip that was, to quote one neighbor, “slap yo’ mama good.” I concur (although I never recommend actually slapping your mother).
Here are some unfiltered descriptions others used:
– Nose: Fruity, floral, peach, sweet, apple, slight blood orange, honey(ish), pear
– Palate: Pear, acidic, bland/no flavor, honeysuckle, slightly effervescent, fruity, dry
– Finish: Slight aftertaste, smooth, burny, late, flat, tart, acidic
2009 Gabriele Rausse Viognier, Central Region, Virginia
The nose of this one gave me a nice honeysuckle, a touch of pear, and maybe a hint of apple. The palate exploded with honey, candied pear, and a touch of apricot. The Rausse was a bit syrupy comparatively, but finished well with some nice honey notes.
Here are some unfiltered descriptions others used:
– Nose: Oak, fruity, smoky, rosy, butter, woody, (toasted) coconut, lemongrass, apple, white grape, alcohol
– Palate: Smooth, light, bitter, oak, coconut cream, pear, smoky
– Finish: Clean, burny, “wet,” smooth, slightly sweet
To The Scorecards…
Unlike the first round of the Texas v. Virginia head-to-head tasting, this one produced a hands-down winner: Virginia’s Gabriele Rausse Viognier. Six of those who tasted these two wines picked the Virginia offering outright; one picked the Gabriele Rausse slightly over the other; and only one preferred the Texas selection.
Personally, I enjoyed both selections, but objectively, I felt the Virginia Viognier was “better,” as the Gabriele Rausse was a bit more characteristic of the varietal. I will also emphasize that these two wines 1) were very different, and 2) will rarely have the opportunity to “compete” head-to-head, since the Duchman Family Winery Viognier can’t be purchased outside of Texas and the Gabriele Rausse Viognier isn’t sold outside of Virginia.
So there it is. Next week I am embarking on another trip to Texas and may have the opportunity to pick up a few bottles that will allow The Rib and me to set up another head-to-head Texas/Virginia tasting this fall.
Cheers from The Patio at CorkEnvy,
Stub
Hey Stub, interesting comparison. I’m curious to know a little better what you mean by characteristic of the varietal. It sort of implies you have a baseline to which you’re comparing these two wines? What represents the ideal viognier for you?
Tom,
I try to abide by the principle that we shouldn’t evaluate wine on absolute terms, but there are a few varietal characteristics that we have come to expect, depending on what we’re sipping. When it comes to Viognier, I look for lower acid and a bit of a floral character to go along with lighter fruit notes. The Texas selection here had a LOT of acid and (to me) lacked the floral and/or fresh grassy notes that I have come to expect from a Viognier.